Pantanal Escapes

Corumbá

Corumbá is a small historic town located in the Brazilian state of Mato Grosso do Sul, on the frontier with Bolivia. It had been a feature on the backpacker circuit for decades, but has fallen into decline in recent years as tour operators have moved to the larger centre of Campo Grande.

This is one of the oldest towns in Mato Grosso do Sul. Many buildings around the city centre and along the waterfront date from the 19th and early 20th centuries. The town was founded even earlier, in 1778, but the oldest structures either didn't endure the passage of time, or were razed during the Paraguayan occupation of the town during the Paraguayan War (1864-70). The post-war period saw a boom with reconstruction, development and an influx of new settlers - including new military bases to strengthen the frontier. However, with time, the region's development focus shifted to other towns such as Campo Grande, Aquidauana, and Dourados - leaving Corumbá stuck in limbo. Today, the town is a living time capsule with cobblestone streets and with many of its older buildings now being restored to their former glory.
computer_icon_black External Video: Architecture and History of Corumbá

The town earned the moniker Capital of the Pantanal due to it being the biggest town within the Pantanal boundaries. It's also known as Cidade Branca (the White City) due to the light colour of its soil, which has a high limestone content. The local economy is based on cattle ranching, fishing, tourism, cement production, maintenance of the Brasil-Bolivia gas pipeline, and a small local iron mine in nearby iron-rich hills.

Although Corumbá is the main town, the immediate region is actually a conurbation with several other towns including:
  • Ladário: This is the site of a Brazilian naval base established in 1872 after the Paraguayan War, and the site of the original township;
  • Puerto Suárez: On the Bolivian side of the frontier, it has a large shopping mall, banks, hotels, and tours in the Bolivian Pantanal, plus an airport with a weekly flight from Santa Cruz; and
  • Puerto Quijarro: Also on the Bolivian side. Not much to see, but its the location of the train station offering transport to Santa Cruz.
Travel to/from Bolivia is fairly simple - but you may need to get your passport stamped (not always necessary for a simple shopping trip), and change between Brazil/Bolivian taxis on the frontier. The Brazilian taxis can be a rip off, so be aware that there is also a regularly scheduled bus on the Brazilian side which travels into the CBD.

Tourism


Until a decade ago, Corumbá was a major stop for backpackers arriving in the town travelling to/from Bolivia by train. The town had several backpacker hostels and was a good location for organising tours into the Pantanal. In fact, trying to avoid the touts selling tours in the bus station, train station, hostels and city centre was genuinely hard work. However, some of these businesses were badly run, got bad reputations - and were eventually edged out by larger companies operating out of Campo Grande. Today there are fewer operators, and your best bet is either to pre-book or use one of the Campo Grande operators. Some travellers have also reported that the Corumbá has become a less attractive option for tourists with an increase in robbery and petty crimes. This is a shame for what should be a quiet and relaxing stop.

The town itself can be explored in about half a day. However, there are several local events when a longer stay might be warranted. These include the annual carnival celebration and Festival América do Sul.

For Brazilians, Corumbá remains a drawcard for tourism thanks both to the Barco-Hotels and fishing lodges which offer sanctuary for the sports fisherman, and the proximity of tax-free shopping for clothing, perfumes and electronics across the border in Bolivia.
computer_icon_black www.corumba.travel

Above:Local kids waving promotional giveaways during local elections in Corumbá.

Below: Corumbá's annual carnaval is one of Brazil's best. Fun and full of spectacle and, unlike Rio, its easy to get close to the action.


Local Events


Corumbá Carnaval


Corumbá has had its own carnaval dating at least since the period following the Paraguayan War. However, an influx of military officers (including many from Rio de Janeiro) has led to the Carnaval tradition being imported - and the establishment of several local samba groups. These groups compete during annual performances along Avenida General Rondon overlooking the historic waterfront. These performances occur during the Brazilian carnaval season in February/March.

Corumbá's annual celebrations have grown in size and spectacle - and are now the biggest in the Brazilian central-west region, bringing thousands of visitors from nearby states and neighbouring Bolivia, and occasionally including big name performers. Celebrations last around two weeks - but with the main performances being held over three nights. The build up to the main event involves a series of informal blocos (including the infamous Bloco Sujo) where fans organise their own costumed revelry.
tv_icon Video: Carnaval Report 2012
tv_icon Video: Carnaval Ad 2012

Rodeio


In the middle of September each year, the Semana do Município celebrates the town's anniversary. It includes the Latin American Festival of Arts and Culture, and the Rodeio (Festa do Peão Boiadeiro).

Festival América do Sul


With its position on the frontier, Corumbá is aiming to position itself as a gateway for trade between Brazil and the rest of South America - with most countries having signed up to the South American MercoSul (or MercoSur) trade block. The annual Festival of South America is a celebration of South American culture with shows, exhibits, artists, fairs and organised debates from across the continent. It occurs in late August (recently moved from May) and attracts up to 100,000 visitors per year.
computer_icon_black www.festivalamericadosulpantanal.com

Festa de Nossa Senhora da Candelária


This religious festival is held at the beginning of February each year to celebrate the town's patron saint. This is a public holiday, and there are religious processions led by worshippers carrying a statue of the saint. There's also a bizarre local tradition that involves people throwing buckets of water at each other.

Banho de São João


Baptism of St. John. The is a religious festival which has been a local tradition for a century or more. A small statue of St John is carried in a procession to the river and baptised. The local port is richly decorated - with music acts and celebrations. Occurs annually in mid/late June coinciding with mid-winter.

Cuisine


With its cattle ranching background, Corumbá's residents appreciate a good barbecue. There's also a strong Paraguayan and Bolivian influence with pastries such as salteñas stuffed with chicken. However, fish dominates in regional dishes with stews made using pacu and large catfish such as pintado. This includes Peixe Urucum made with coconut and cream. Piranha is another local favourite with the Caldo do Piranha fish broth, said to a strong aphrodisiac. The restaurant Peixaria do Lulu is a popular location for those wanting to experiment Pantanal regional dishes.

Things to See and Do


Porto Geral
Rua Manuel Cavassa
Porto Geral is the local name for the riverfront. During the town's heyday this was an area of busy warehouses and trading companies. It's much quieter today. Some old buildings have definitely seen better days - but many have been restored or, at least, given a fresh coat of paint. They're now occupied by shops selling Pantanal souvenirs or selling fishing tours on the Barco-Hotels which line the riverfront. There are also a few eateries. It's a good place to watch the sunset and watch the river traffic - which mostly just consist of small pusher vessels pushing scows of soybeans, cement and minerals downriver.

Above:A Barco-Hotel vessel, Cabexy II, built for fishing tours, docked along the Porto Geral riverfront in Corumbá.

Below:Pantanal wildlife-themed souvenirs inside Arte Pantaneira, located on the riverfront in the Porto Geral.


Museu do Pantanal
Praça da República
From 8 to 11:30 am and from 1 to 5pm. Closed Saturdays and Sundays.
Housed within the Luis de Albuquerque Institute, overlooking the Praça da República. It hosts two of the largest libraries in the State. It also has a museum containing a collection of stuffed animals, archaeological objects, artefacts from local Indian tribes (Kadiwéu, Terena and Bororó), traditional crafts and artworks in leather and clay, and old cattle branding irons. It also includes personal objects from pioneer settlers in the Pantanal including Marshal Cândido Rondon.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Candelária
Praça da República
Constructed in 1885, this is Corumbá's main church. It overlooks the Praça da República, and caused great controversy before it was even built - triggering the curse that the Italian priest Frei Mariano invoked on the town. Maintenance on the church had been neglected in recent decades, and was closed in June 2016 when parts of its ceiling collapsed. It is currently undergoing restoration and is set to reopen later in 2017.

Praça da Independência
This is a park in the town centre occupying land that was formerly used for a city zoo. It includes several objects dating to the days of the Brazilian Empire - including a band gazebo presented to the town by the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and a set of four Italian marble statues representing the four seasons, in addition to several other monuments. The trees within the park are predominantly native plants such as carandá, bocaiuva and ipê-roxo.

View of the marble statues and historic Gazebo installed in the Praça da Independência.

Historic traction engine in Corumbá's Praça da Independência.


Casa do Artesão
Rua Dom Aquino, 405
From 8 to 11:30 am and 2 to 5:30pm, Saturday: 7:30 to 11:30am. Closed on Sundays.

Founded in 1975, the Casa do Artesão occupies the old city prison which was closed in the 1970s. Local artisans rent the old cells - using the them to display, sell, and produce their work. This includes works in leather, wood, ceramics, weaving, painting, embroidery, indigenous handicrafts and homemade liqueurs.

Historic old buildings and faded elegance along the Porto Geral riverfront. These are progressively being restored, and date from the pre-rail and pre-road transport era when Corumbá served as the "emporium" of the Mato Grosso territory. This is the old Casa Vasquez & Sons building (photographed pre-restoration) which is now the Memorial do Homem Pantaneiro.


Memorial do Homem Pantaneiro
Ladeira José Bonifácio, 171
Located in the recently restored Casa Vasquez & Sons building, on the road descending to the riverfront, this museum houses exhibits describing the Pantanal ecosystem, and the various cultures which have settled the region. The building itself dates from 1909, and was designed by the Italian architect, Martino Santa Lucci. It has a large open hall downstairs with a double-height ceiling, a mezzanine, and a large wooden staircase. The inside is decorated with murals and mosaic tiles. The building was restored in 2006.
computer_icon_black www.institutohomempantaneiro.org.br

Museu de História do Pantanal
Rua Manoel Cavassa, 275
Tues-Sat: 1pm to 5pm. Closed on Sundays
Also located on the riverfront, this similarly themed archaeological museum traces man's 8000 year history in the Pantanal region, up until the time of colonisation. It also includes photographs and paintings by local artists. The museum is located in the old Wanderley, Baís & Company building which was restored and reopened in 2008.
computer_icon_black www.muhpan.org.br

Casa de Massabarro
Rua de Cacimba, Bairro da Cervejaria From 8 to 11:30 and 13:30 to 17:30. Saturday from 8 to 12 h. Closed on Sundays.
This is a non-profit organisation founded in 1985, teaching and encouraging children in ceramic arts and social education programmes. The artworks made are typically representative of the flora and fauna of the region - but also include some religious works. Artworks are available for sale, with 80% going to the artist, and 20% back to the association. The criteria to join is for children to be aged between 9 and 14 years, and enrolled in school. In 1991, the artworks (and artists) could the eye of legendary Carnaval organiser Joãozinho Trinta, who twice asked them to decorate parade floats for the Rio de Janeiro samba schools Beija-Flor and Viradouro.

Sunday Market
Sundays.Ladeira José Bonifácio, 171
A open air market is run every Sunday along Rua Tiradentes, Rua Delamare, and Rua Ladário. Most of the vendors are Bolivian, who bring in fresh produce from their farms across the border - although it also includes cheap clothing, footwear, consumer goods (mostly very poor quality items from China), and lots of pirated CDs and DVDs. It's worth a visit if only to sample the local snacks such as pasteis, and freshly squeezed sugar cane juice.

Sunday market in Corumbá.


Forte Junqueira
Visits by arrangement with Army information Office.
Located in a high area overlooking the Pantanal and Paraguay River, the fort is one of several constructed immediately after the Paraguayan War, as part of a plan to ensure the defensibility of Corumbá. The walls are a half metre thick, and the armament consists of 12 80mm Krupps cannons manufactured between 1872 and 1874. The fort is located within an area which is now the barracks of the 17th Frontier Battalion.
computer_icon_black Forte Junqueira info & history

Cristo Rei do Pantanal
Morro São Felipe
Giving the town a small flavour of Rio de Janeiro, Cristo Rei do Pantanal is a 12m statue and lookout installed on the São Felipe hill overlooking Corumbá and the Pantanal. The statue was made by the local artist Izulina Xavier. The easiest way to visit is by private car or taxi.

Cristo Rei do Pantanal statue. This is located on a hillside behind Corumbá - overlooking the town and the Pantanal.


Surrounding Area


Forte Coimbra
Visits by arrangement with Comando Militar do Oeste
Built in 1775 to defend the frontiers of the Portuguese (and later Brazilian) Empire from incursions from its Spanish neighbours, Forte Coimbra is located on the banks of the Paraguay River, several hours by boat south of Corumbá. This was the site of the first major engagement of the Paraguayan War when the forced of Francisco Solano López invaded Brazil - capturing much of the southern Mato Grosso territory. A Brazilian force of 157 held off over 4,000 Paraguayan soldiers for several days before slipping out unseen. The fort is still a occupied by the Brazilian military but has seen increased tourism in recent years.
tv_icon Visit to Forte Coimbra (portuguese)
computer_icon_black Travelling to Forte Coimbra

Parque Marina Gatass
Rodovia Ramos Gomes
Located near the border with Bolivia, this park is the largest park in the city area. It covers a forest area of 6 ha, with plenty of shade and lawn to relax. It's also the location of an important archaeological site. The park was built in 1991, with a view overlooking Baía do Tamengo - a lake situated mid-way between Corumbá and Puero Suarez.

Caimasul Caiman Farm
BR 262, Km 741
Located in a rural area about 30km from Corumbá, this caiman farm is still relatively new - with tours still being by arrangement only. Visitors can get up close and personal with caiman (jacaré) of all sizes. Eggs are hatched in large incubator chambers - with caiman being raised in enclosures separated by size. Once they reach the right size (about 8kg) they are humanely slaughtered for meat and leather products.
tv_icon MS Rural video tour (portuguese)
computer_icon_black www.caimasul.com

Estrada Parque
This is the southern Pantanal equivalent of the transpantaneira. It's an unpaved road servicing several remote Pantanal communities and cattle ranches in the area between Corumbá and small town of Buraco das Piranhas. It covers 120km, includes 87 wooden bridges, and several wooden observation observation towers. The wildlife is most concentrated after the ferry crossing across the Paraguay River at Porto da Manga.

As with the transpantaneira this is one of the best opportunities to view wildlife - looking down on jacaré while crossing bridges (these can also be a good fishing spot), or viewing animals as they cross the road. Importantly, it also provides road access to several local fazendas and tourist lodges - although is best avoided in the wet season (Nov-Apr) when it turns to thick boggy mud. A small fee is charged to vehicles carrying tourists by the Environmental Police (and administered by SEMATUR, the municipal tourism board) to help pay for the upkeep. Travel is recommended only during the day, as crossing the bridges at night can be be treacherous.
tv_icon Travelling the Estrada Parque in the wet season
tv_icon Estrada Parque journey

Tourists swimming in a Pantanal river while on a boat trip out of Corumbá.

Washing day at the Porto da Manga ferry stop. This ferry is needed to take vehicles across the Paraguay river when travelling along the Estrada Parque.


Curva do Leque
This is a small community on the Estrada Parque road. Although there's not much to see, its a good stop midway along the road where you'll find the Esquinão restaurant and General Store. It offers simple but freshly prepared meals.

Ladário


This is a few kilometres out of Corumbá, and serves primarily as a base for Brazil's river navy. This is a little quieter and more peaceful than the Corumbá township - and might be a better option if you're just looking to get away from things. As with Corumbá, tourism here is aimed primarily at Brazilian sports fishermen.

Puerto Suarez


This is town of around 20,000 on the Bolivian side of the frontier, and is connected to the rest of Bolivia (and, most notably, Santa Cruz) by rail, road and air services. However, it's essentially just a big one-street town - with a few small eateries, bars and hotels. This Bolivian side of the frontier is generally cheaper - but not as well organised.

The town was founded as a river port in 1875 by Miguel Suarez Arana. It's proximity to the Paraguay river allowed for the relatively easy import and export of goods into and out of Eastern Bolivia. This was facilitated by the construction the Tamengo Canal which connects Laguna Cáceres to the Paraguay river - making it the only Bolivian waterway which connects to the ocean. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries this made the town a gateway for valuable shipments of rubber from the Bolivian Amazon to industrial factories in Europe and North America. Access to transport also made the town important during the Chaco War between Bolivia and Paraguay in 1932-35 - with Bolivian Navy operating troop transports on Laguna Cáceres and along the Mamoré-Madeira river system. There was also frequent aerial battles between Bolivian aircraft and Paraguayan Flying Boat squadron operating from nearby Bahia Negra. Today, both Puerto Suarez and Puerto Quijarro serve as gateways into/out of Brazil. They also have markets and malls catering to Brazilians after cheap duty-free goods. However, be warned of counterfeits and scams - even in seemly reputable stores.

Tours of the Bolivian Pantanal and Otuquis National Park can be arranged through El Tumbador, and larger hotels such as El Pantanal, Hotel Sucre and Casa Real. Alternatively, it can be easier to organise your Bolivian Pantanal experience via a Santa Cruz based tourist agency. Although only 10% of the Pantanal is on the Bolivian side, it has the advantage of being less developed - which can be better for finding wildlife.

Nearby attractions include:
  • Otuquis National Park: This covers the Bolivian Pantanal in small corner of the country between Brazil and Paraguay.
  • Cueva de Motocusito: This is a cave system near the town of Motacusito. It's rich in stalagmites and stalactites, with local wildlife including vampire bats. Visitors need to be fit and able to squeeze through narrow gaps.
computer_icon_black Chiquitania.com: Puerto Suarez
computer_icon_black www.boliviabella.com
computer_icon_black www.rosariotours.com/scz-pantanal.html

These has sadly now been removed, but Pantanal-themed public telephones used to be an entertaining feature in Corumbá.

Old buildings in Corumbá's historic Porto Geral (river port) are being progressively restored and brought back to life.


History


The town was founded by Sergeant-Major Marcelino Rois Camponês on 21 September 1778, under the orders of the Mato Grosso territory governor (Luís de Albuquerque de Melo Pereira e Cáceres) - establishing a strategic post to protect the frontier from the neighbouring Spanish Empire, Indian tribes (such as the Paiaguá and Guaicurú), and to help ensure the safety of shipping to/from regions further north. The town was originally called Vila Nossa Senhora da Conceição de Albuquerque, before changing to Albuquerque Novo, then Santa Cruz de Corumbá ... and then finally just Corumbá. The original site is that now occupied by the neighbouring Ladário.

The Paraguayan War

The town's initial growth was slow - not reaching any bigger than a village until the mid 19th century. However, it was an important riverport with the growth of steamship traffic and commerce travelling up the Paraguay river. However, in late 1864, as tensions rose with the expansionist ambitions of Paraguayan dictator, Francisco Solano López, he sent his brother in law, Vincente Barrios, to capture and occupy the territory. Brazilian soldiers fleeing from their defeat at Forte Coimbra passed through the town in late December 1864, bringing word of the invasion. A committee met to discuss defence of the town, but since it was without fortifications they also decided to abandon. Ironically, rather than organise an orderly evacuation the committee, itself, fled on a ship along with the soldiers - while most of the town's residents took their chances headed into the Pantanal.

The Paraguayans reached the town on 4 January 1865, discovering it empty. Barrios sent his soldiers out, dragging the residents back into the town - discovering that it had been completely ransacked, right down to the door hinges, wallpaper and anything else which caught the impoverished Paraguayan soldiers' eye. Most of it was packed onto steamships and sent downriver to the Paraguayan capital in Asuncion. The women of the town were also mistreated, including by Barrios himself who took the lead and ordered women taken to him onboard his steamer. Many Brazilians were also taken to Asuncion for use as forced labour. Anyone who interfered was beaten, shot or lanced. The Paraguayans also gained notoriety disrespecting the neutrality of foreign nationals who lived in the town.

Although there were several nearby battles and skirmishes (involving very small groups of Brazilian soldiers using guerrilla tactics), the town remained under Paraguayan control for over two years. It was finally re-taken on 13 June 1867, when a newly strengthened Brazilian force came downriver from Cuiabá led by Lt. Col. Antonio Maria Coelho. The town had been stripped, burned and effectively destroyed by the Paraguayans.

The Post-War Boom

Corumbá effectively needed to be rebuilt from scratch. Although this was a slow process, it was helped by the town quickly regaining its position as a major river port. It was also helped by the economic boost that came with the increased food production and market needed to provide for the substantially increased military garrisons and river navy. The new town was laid out with wide streets and modern comforts.

By the end of the 19th Century, Corumbá was the third largest river port in South America. It exported animal skins (jacaré, jaguar, and otter), dried beef, fish, yerba maté, medicinal plants and handled freight for valuable rubber being shipped down from the Bolivian Amazon and Guaporé regions. It collected duties for passengers and freight going northwards toward Mato Grosso and Cuiabá. Corumbá was considered the emporium of Mato Grosso - with a large foreign number of traders, consulates, around 25 international banks, and town's primary currency being Pounds Sterling. The explorer, Col. Percy Fawcett, who based himself in the town during the planning stage for several expeditions in the early 1920s praised Corumbá's development, modernity and culture. Former US President Theodore Roosevelt also briefly used the town as a base with Cândido Rondon to test their equipment and learn about the local wildlife in preparation to explore the "River of Doubt" in the Brazilian Amazon in 1913-14.

The town's demographics differed from the other Pantanal settlements, drawing immigrants from Europe, Lebanon, Syria, Turkey, and other South American countries. One visiting army officer in 1913 remarked: "At the hotel, the bar, the trading houses, and everywhere in this small and distant Babel, one hears all languages. I wouldn't be exaggerating to say that Portuguese isn't the most spoken language"

The completion of a railroad extension to the town in 1914 led to significant change over the next few decades. Rather than being shipped downriver towards Buenos Aires, exports started being shipped by rail directly to São Paulo. Gradually the focus shifted from the river port towards other railway centres such as Campo Grande. The trading houses closed or moved away - leaving the town to fall into decline.

The Curse of Frei Mariano

The loss of the lucrative river trade and the economic stagnation of the town is sometimes blamed on the curse of Frei (Brother) Mariano. Frei Mariano de Bagnaia was an Italian priest based in the town, who considered himself a hero of the Paraguayan War. His curse arises from the construction of the Nossa Senhora da Candelária Church, which overlooks the Praça da República square. One version of the story says that he asked the Bishop for the church to be dedicated in his honour, but was refused. Another version says that Frei Mariano ordered a clock, which appears on the bell tower, from an Italian clock maker after the promise from a local politician that he would pay - only to have the politician renege on his promise, and the clock maker accusing the priest of being a deadbeat. This was made worse by the politician, who owned the local newspaper, then also accusing the priest of being a deadbeat and convincing the local populace to boycott his masses.

When the angered priest was leaving after being recalled to São Paulo, he shook the dust from his sandals before entering the carriage, loudly proclaiming: "Desta cidade nem o pó levarei" (this city, and not even its dust, will ever rise). Legend has it that the priest buried his sandals in a secret location, and that the city's prosperity would only grow again if they were found. Rua Frei Mariano, one of the town's main streets, was supposedly named in the priest's honour to help break the curse ... but the return of the town's past prosperity still hasn't occurred.

Food stop on the Trem da Morte, travelling between Puerto Suarez and Santa Cruz.


Trem da Morte and the Smuggling Trade

Most travel guides mention the unusual moniker of the train service to/from nearby Puerto Quijarro and the Bolivian city of Santa Cruz. This is commonly known as the Trem da Morte (Death Train). Although those who've ridden the train might attribute this to a bumpy track and lack of comforts, there are several other stories behind the name's origins. One believed origin is the death of workers who died of Yellow Fever and other illnesses as construction passed through swamps and marshlands. Another story is that the train was also used to transport sick malaria and yellow fever sufferers, and transport lepers. The fact that the railroad was poorly maintained and suffered several derailments in its early years also helped reinforce its bad reputation. Others say that the name originated are poor Bolivians without tickets would stow away, and sometimes fall to their deaths from the train.

These days, malaria deaths, yellow fever deaths, leprosy and derailments are a rarity. However, the rise of the cocaine smuggling trade through the 1970s and 80s led to new versions of the tale. Some cocaine smuggling likely still occurs, but on a much smaller scale as random checks carried out by Brazilian Federal Police of travellers from Bolivia make the route ineffective. These days drug smuggling operations are more likely to use private planes and helicopters flown into remote cattle ranches, often cloning the IDs or registrations of other aircraft. Seizures of aircraft and vehicles are frequently reported in the Brazilian press but it's a side of things that (hopefully) tourists will never see.

These days, smuggling operations in the region commonly involve the shipping of computers, electronic goods, perfumes, cheap subsidised gasoline, pirate DVDs and clothing in from Bolivia and Paraguay to bypass the very considerable duties which Brazil imposes on imports. There's also a significant traffic in Brazilian stolen cars going the other way (ably assisted by the Brazilian Police if rumours are to be believed). Access to cheap imported goods is one reason that makes Corumbá a popular option for Brazilian tourists - with a large modern shopping mall stocking a large range of consumer goods just over the Bolivian border in Puerto Suarez.

Safety Tips


Corumbá's position as a border crossing means that it attracts some shady characters. As referred above, there's an active (and quite diverse) smuggling trade. Sadly, many of Brazil's junkies have also made Corumbá their temporary home - figuring that life will be easier, and supply a little cheaper, closer to the source. This hidden underclass isn't too visible to tourists but has an influence on petty crime. Puerto Suarez, across the border, is also a Mecca for stolen goods. For this reason, its a good idea to take care if wandering around the town after dark, and be discrete if carrying items of value.

Inside the rodoviária inter-city bus station in Corumbá.


Places to Eat


Many of the town's eateries (and an ice creameries) are located near the town centre and along Rua Frei Mariano where you can experience some of the Pantanal's regional dishes. The list below is a selection - but there are also many small corner bars offering a cold beer with burgers (the infamous Brazilian "X-Salada", pronounced Sheese-salada).

Name

Description

Laço do Ouro
Rua Frei Mariano, 534

One of the best dining options - clean and modern churrascaria with a good selection of salads plus other regional dishes. Boasts the coldest beer (choppe) in town, cooled to -40°C.
Open 7 days, 11am-midnight.

Dolce Cafe
Rua Frei Mariano, 572

Bakery and cafe run by the same family as Laço do Ouro above - and just up the road. The cakes are divine. The cafe / restaurant area is also popular.
Bakery opens at 5.30am seven days.
Restaurant opens 11am-midnight (extended to 2am on weekends)

Miguéis
Rua Frei Mariano, 708

Lunches only. Offers a mixture of modern and traditional Pantaneiro dishes. Pay per kilo, or all you can eat for R$26. Open 7 days, 11am-3pm.

Do Seu Jeito
Rua Frei Mariano, 730

Ice creamery with a selection of local flavours. A perfect place to visit when the weather gets hot.
Open Tues-Sun, 8am-midnight.

Peixaria do Lulu
Rua Dom Aquino, 738

A legend in Pantanal cuisine - and a favourite for locals and tourists alike.

Churrascaria Rodeio
Rua 13 de Junho, 760

Local favourite celebrating Brazil's love of anything barbecued.

Pizza Fiorella
Rua Delamore, 647

A local favourite offering the best wood-fired pizzas in town. Just across from the Praça da República.

Vivabella
Rua Arthur Mangabeira, 1

A little hard to find in a small alley off the Praça Generoso Ponse (on Av. General Rondon) overlooking the riverfront. This is a small Italian restaurant and bar - perfect for a dinner for two.


Places to Stay - Corumbá


The following is a list of places to stay in Corumbá. Since the town get hot and humid - especially in the summer months, splurging for a room with air conditioning is an option worth considering.

Name
Description

Hotel Nacional
Rua América, 936
www.hnacional.com.br

Has the reputation as Corumbá's finest hotel. It's popular with businessmen travelling on fishing trips. Not always family friendly due to complaints about said businessmen in neighbouring rooms making noise with their "guests".

Hotel Santa Monica
Rua Antônio Maria Coelho, 345
www.hsantamonica.com.br

Not fancy, but a popular mid-range option often popular with package tours. Conveniently located near the town centre.

Gold Fish Hotel
Avenida Rio Branco, 2799
www.candeias.com.br/hoteis/hotel-gold-fish-ms-corumba

Large hotel located overlooking the Paraguay river mid-way between Corumbá and Ladário.

Hotel Laura Vicuña
Rua Cuiabá, 775
www.hotellauravicuna.com.br

Simple, but clean and professional.

Aguas do Pantanal
Rua Dom Aquino, 1457
www.aguasdopantanalhotel.com.br

Mid-range hotel near the centre of town.

Pousada Beija Flor
Rua Cabral, 1101
www.pousadabeijaflor.altervista.org

Popular Bed & Breakfast, several blocks from the town centre but close to eateries.

Pousada do Cachimbo
Rua Alan Kardec, 4
www.pousadadocachimbo.com.br

Near the waterfront. Far from the town centre. Several recent bad reviews.

HI Hostel
Rua Colombo, 1419
www.corumbahostel.com.br

Avoid. Consistently bad reviews despite its association with the reputable Hostelling International network. Website now offline.


There are also several very low budget hotels on Rua Delamare, near the town centre. These mostly have communal bathrooms, and aren't particularly clean. But okay if you're on a very tight budget and willing to compromise.

Places to Stay - Ladário


There are several hotel options in Ladário, but operate primarily as fishing lodges. These can generally offer rates on hiring a small motorboats and fishing guide if that's your thing. Note that fishing is prohibited in the piracema (spawning) season Nov-Feb.

Name

Description

Pousada Pontal
Estrada Da Codrasa, Km 14, Ladário
www.pontalpousadaepesca.com.br

Budget fishing lodge located 14 km out of Ladário, and about 20 km from Corumbá.

Pesqueiro Anzol De Ouro
Estrada Da Codrasa Km 10, Ladário
www.hotelpesqueiroanzoldeouro.com.br

Small fishing lodge close to Ladário and Corumbá

Tucanos Park Hotel
Estrada Da Codrasa Km 08, Ladário
www.tucanosparkhotel.com.br

Small fishing lodge close to Ladário and Corumbá

Hotel Rios do Pantanal
Av. 14 De Março, 1068, Ladário
www.hotelriosdopantanal.com.br

Small hotel in Ladário close to the Paraguay riverfront. Note: website not accessible on iOS devices


Place to Stay - Puerto Suarez & Puerto Quijarro


Name

Description

Casa Real
Calle Vanguardia, 39, Puerto Suarez
www.hotelenpuertosuarez.com

Small comfortable Bed & Breakfast with private baths and air conditioning.

El Pantanal Hotel
Arroyo Concepcion 1, Puerto Quijarro
www.elpantanalhotel.com

Resort hotel. The most expensive option in the town. Okay, but run down and not as fancy as they'd have you believe.

Hotel Sucre
Av. Bolívar, 60, Puerto Suarez
weblink

Simple but comfortable Bed & Breakfast in Puerto Suarez.

Jardin del Bibosi
Av. Luis Salazar de la Vega, Puerto Quijarro
www.hotelbibosi.com

A clean and comfortable option across the frontier.

Hostel Tamengo
Calle Costa Rica 57, Puerto Quijarro
www.hosteltrail.com/hostels/tamengoresort

Marketed as a "Resort Hostel", and quite well appointed. Currently closed and for sale, but hopefully to re-open soon.


At the cheapest end of the spectrum in Puerto Suarez are Hotel Palace, Hotel Robore, Executive Hotel, Bamby and Beby Hotel. These range between $5-20 per night for a very basic room, with usually with a fan and a shared bathroom. Rooms with a private bathroom may be available for a higher fee).

Places to Stay - Pantanal Lodges


There are several Pantanal Lodges close to Corumbá. These are good options for viewing wildlife, and the typical Pantanal activities such as fishing and horse riding. Almost all are accessed via the Estrada Parque.

Use the interactive zoomable map on our Pantanal Maps page to see approximate locations of these lodges near Corumbá.

Name

Description

Passo do Lontra & Pousada São João
Estrada Parque
www.passodolontra.com.br

Two lodges to choose from. Passo do Lontra is situated on the Estrada Parque near Buraco das Piranhas, and is well set up for tourists and sports fishermen. It offers comfortable apartments and good facilities, with options also for camping.
Pousada São João is a second lodge located 25km further along the Estrada Parque.
See Trip Advisor reviews.

Xaraés Lodge
Estrada Parque
www.xaraes.com.br

A working cattle ranch located near the Abobral river, which also caters for tourist. Activites and wildlife.
See Trip Advisor reviews.

Fazenda Santa Clara
Estrada Parque
www.pantanalsantaclara.com.br

Has an office in Campo Grande and Hostel, which helps arrange transport out to the Fazenda. Overall positive reviews, and includes a budget dormitory and camping options popular with backpackers. Great wildlife including rare Giant Otters (although they may move from season to season)
See Trip Advisor reviews.

Fazenda Santa Inês
Estrada Parque
www.fazendasantaines.com.br

Another working cattle ranch offering activities, wildlife and the Pantaneiro experience to tourists.
No reviews available

Pousada Arara Azul
Estrada Parque
pousadaararaazulms.com.br

Appears closed at present.
Comfortable fazenda conveniently situated at on the Estrada Parque. Good selection of birds, wildlife and (occasionally) giant otters.
See Trip Advisor reviews.

Pousada Rio Vermelho
Estrada Parque

Has been operated as a farm stay in the past but no curent website or reviews.

Pantanal Park Hotel
BR-262, near Porto Morrinho
www.pantanalpark.com.br

A large rural hotel complex overlooking the Paraguay river. Suits both fishing tours and wildlife watching.
See Trip Advisor reviews.

Pousada Palmeiras
BR-262, km 718
Baia de Albuquerque

www.pousadapalmeiras.com/

Located off MS-432 (near where highway BR-262 crosses the Paraguay river), this is a small rustic, i.e. very simple, fishing lodge.


El Tumbador (Puerto Suarez)

This is a small lodge jointly run by the conservation organisation Hombre y Naturaleza (Bolivia) and Amigos de Doñana (Spain), and is largely staffed by volunteers. They charge around $20 per person per night in a shared four-person cabin (with six cabins being available). These are located on the shore of Laguna Cáceres, about 4 km out of town. They can also arrange individually planned tours.

Barco-Hotels.


Barco-Hotels are a favourite among sports fishermen - taking you out to some of the best remote fishing spots, as well as giving your the opportunity to view wildlife along the riverbanks ... but with comfortable accommodations, good food (and drink) and entertainment. The vessels have gotten bigger and more luxurious over time - usually towing several small motorboats which are useful for exploring the smaller channels.

Name

Description

Perola do Pantanal
Manoel Cavassa 255, Porto Geral
www.peroladopantanal.com.br

Long-time operator in the Pantanal. Has daily excursions lasting four hours - along with a bigger hotel for multi-day trips

RaquelTur
Rua Manoel Cavassa 109, Porto Geral
raqueltur.com

Operators of the IndiaPorã fleet of Barco-Hotels based in Corumbá.

Joice Tur
Manoel Cavassa 331, Porto Geral
www.joicetur.com.br

Agents for several local Barco-Hotels.

Operators of the Barco-Hotel Magnata, which leaves from Corumbá 3pm every Saturday, returning on Thursdays.


Getting There and Away


By Air: There are two airports servicing the region in Corumba and Puerto Suarez. TAM (via Pantanal Linhas Aéreas) and TRIP Linhas Aéreas have scheduled flights into Corumbá from Campo Grande - although these can be expensive and hard to book depending on the time of year. Two airlines formerly servicing Puerto Suarez (AeroSur and Lloyd Aero Boliviano) have ceased operations. The remaining option is Bolivia's Transporte Aereo Militar which offers a weekly flight between Puerto Suarez and Santa Cruz on Thursdays.

By Bus: This is often the best option if travelling between Corumbá and Campo Grande (and onto other Brazilian cities). There are services leaving between the two every few hours. It's a seven hour bus ride, so investment in a more comfortable Executivo Class ticket (and an express bus without stops) might be worthwhile.
computer_icon_black www.buscaonibus.com.br

In the event you're travelling to a Fazenda on the Estrada Parque, you can take the non-express bus, and arrange with the bus company to have them drop you off at Buraco das Piranhas. This is located at the intersection of the Estrada Parque with BR-262. Some lodges will pick you up from here - but make sure to confirm with them beforehand, and ensure that they know when you'll be arriving, since there's no where to stay and nothing to do in Buraco das Piranhas if you're stuck.

By Road: The main road into Corumbá is 400km from Campo Grande, travelling along BR-262 via Miranda and Aquidauana. Although the road is paved, it is frequently pot-holed due to the heavy rains - so car is recommended. The journey typically takes 5-6 hours. There's also a road on Bolivian side for travel to Santa Cruz and other centres. However, these are often unpaved and should be driven with care.

By Train: Officially known as the Expreso Oriental, but better known as the Trem da Morte (Death Train), the overnight service runs between Puerto Quijarro (just over the border from Corumbá) and Santa Cruz. It runs three times weekly, and takes around 17 hours - but can take longer depending on the condition of the line. The landscapes are monotonous, so that the journey can't really be considered scenic. In fact, aside from the fact it gets you to/from Santa Cruz, the main selling point is simply that you can tell your friends that you rode the Bolivian Death Train. However, if you use the service then its very strongly recommended to travel Super Pullman class (or higher if available) as this ensures better security and the chance that you might actually get some rest. The train leaves from Puerto Quijarro at 4pm on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. The reverse journey from Santa Cruz runs on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. Other services such as the Ferrobus and Trem Rapido run on other days but mightn't have the Super Pullman option.

The Trem do Pantanal service running between Campo Grande and Miranda doesn't currently extend as far as Corumbá, although this may change in future.

Transport within Corumbá


Taxis within Corumbá are notorious. There are frequent complaints from tourists being forced to pay $25-30 just to drive a few blocks. The taxis are old and unsafe, and the drivers aren't too friendly. The high prices might simply reflect the fact that most locals choose to walk, take the bus, have their own cars, or get friends to drive them - meaning that taxi drivers need to charge more for the few fares they do get. However, sometimes a taxi might be your only option. Just negotiate the price upfront and be prepared to get stung. Mototaxis (Motorcycle taxis) are another much cheaper option if you're travelling without luggage ... but do so with caution. There are regular municipal buses leaving to the Bolivian frontier every 30 minutes during the day. These leave from Rua Dom Aquino, in front of the Praça da Independência.

Travel To/From Bolivia


Taxis are the easiest way of getting to the frontier, although there's also a municipal bus on the Brazilian side (refer to the Transport section above). Immigration between the two countries is an almost informal affair.
  • Bolivia: This is only immigration office actually on the frontier. This is where you'll need to stop for your Bolivian entry or exit stamp.
  • Brazil: There's no immigration office on the Brazilian side of the frontier. Instead, you'll need to stop at the Federal Police office at the Praça da República. If you're leaving Brazil, remember to leave time (during office hours) to get your exit stamp before you leave.
If the immigration offices are closed, you can cross the frontier without entry and exit stamps - just return when it's open and don't go beyond the towns on either side. The stamps aren't needed if you're just making a quick trip over the frontier for shopping, money changing, or just organising your tickets for onward travel. In the event you need visa or renewal (requirements vary by the country which issued your passport) then check with the appropriate immigration office. In the event that local bureaucracy demands that you have your visa issued outside the country then there's a Brazilian consulate in Puerto Suarez (Av. Raúl Otero Reich) and a Bolivian Consulate in Corumbá (Rua Antonio Maria Coelho, 881).

Locals fishing on the Paraguay river near the Porto Geral.

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Toyota Bandeirante jeep in the Pantanal
Amazon kingfisher in the Pantanal
Sunrise in the Pantanal
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Banner image: View of Corumbá and surrounding Pantanal (Andrew Mercer)
Other photos:
Andrew Mercer

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