Corumbá

Eating

With its cattle ranching background, Corumbá's residents appreciate a good barbecue. There's also a strong Paraguayan and Bolivian influence with pastries such as salteñas stuffed with chicken. However, fish dominates in regional dishes with stews made using pacu and large catfish such as pintado. This includes Peixe Urucum made with coconut and cream. Piranha is another local favourite with the Caldo do Piranha fish broth, said to be a strong aphrodisiac.

The town's eateries (and ice creameries) are located primarily near the town centre and along Rua Frei Mariano. The list below is a selection - but there are also many small corner bars offering a cold beer with burgers including the infamous Brazilian "X-Salada" (pronounced Sheese-salada) or "X-Tudo".

If you're in town on a Sunday morning, you can also wander down to the weekly open air market that takes over Rua Ladário to sample the delicious street food.

Lunch and Dinner

For many Brazilians, lunch is the main meal of the day. It's better still if you can takes the opportunity to escape the heat - sitting in air-conditioned luxury and sampling ice cold beer.

Laço do Ouro

One of the best dining options - clean and modern churrascaria with a good selection of salads plus other regional dishes. Boasts the coldest beer (choppe) in town which, if you get in early enough, is super-cooled to -40°C … so cold that icy condensation forms on the outside. It's utterly delicious in the hot weather, but just sip it slowly the first few times.

Open 7 days, 11am-midnight.

Restaurante Miguéis

Lunches only. Offers a mixture of modern and traditional Pantaneiro dishes. Pay per kilo, or all you can eat for a set price.

Open 7 days, 10am-3pm.

Restaurante Rodeio do Pantanal

Local favourite celebrating Brazil's love of anything barbecued.

Mon-Sat: 11am-3pm; 7pm-11pm
Sun: 11am-4pm

Churrascaria Espeto De Ouro

Out of the way, off the main strip - but popular and often busy. During the evenings, grab one of the tables outside and enjoy the live entertainment. Serves local cuisine. Lunches are a set price buffet.

Mon-Sat: 10am-2.30pm; 5pm-11:30pm
Sat-Sun: 10am-midnight

Caipirão Restaurante

Located close to the airport. Friendly service with good selection of local cuisine.

Tue-Thu: 11am-2:30pm; 6pm-12:30am
Fri-Sat: 11am-2:30pm; 6am-1:30am
Sun: 11am-2:30pm; 6pm-12:30am

Many local restaurants serve lunch (and sometimes dinner) buffet style with a mix of regional dishes and other favourites.

Cafes

After travelling in the Pantanal, a good return to civilisation means a good coffee and fresh baking.

Dolce Cafe

Bakery and cafe run by the same family as Laço do Ouro above - and just up the road. The cakes are divine. The cafe / restaurant area is also popular.

Bakery opens at 5.30am seven days.
Restaurant opens 11am-midnight (extended to 2am on weekends)

Sunday Market

A open air market is run every Sunday along Rua Ladário, between Rua Delamare and Rua 13 de Junho. Most of the vendors are Bolivian, who bring in fresh produce from their farms across the border - although it also includes cheap clothing, footwear, consumer goods (mostly very poor quality items from China), and lots of pirated CDs and DVDs. For the most part, it's worth a visit if only to sample the local snacks such as pasteis, and freshly squeezed sugar cane juice.

Deep fried pastries - pastel or pasteis (plural) - being cooked in a street-side tent in Corumba's Sunday market. The filling is mozzarella cheese, ham, or mince. Best served with a dash of hot chilli sauce and a fresh orange juice or guaraná.

Espetinhos (shish kebabs) being prepared in a street-side tent in Corumbá's Sunday market.

Freshly sugar cane juice being freshly squeezed in Corumbá's Sunday market.

Bars and Entertainment

Country pubs playing the region's Sertaneja music (essentially Brazil's own variation of Country music) have become popular in the last few years, Corumbá has a couple of options to sample.

Most of the town's nightclubs and live venues are located along Avenida General Rondon, at the bottom of Rue Frei Mariano. This location transforms to become the heart of Corumbá's annual Carnaval celebrations in late February or early March.

Country Pub

Western-themed pub and live music venue.
Seemingly open late-night Fridays only,

West Pub

Western-themed pub and live music venue.
Seemingly open late-night Saturdays only.

Corumbá Country Pub

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