Campo Grande
It's likely that you'll pass through here on your way to/from the Southern Pantanal since this is the hub for local transport services. Although Campo Grande probably isn't high on your wish list, its worth spending a day or two to give further insights into the history, nature and culture of the Pantanal. Plus, if you've been in out in the Pantanal for any significant length of time, then going to a show, a shopping mall, or enjoying the latest blockbuster movie in a modern air-conditioned cinema is a great option to reacquaint yourself with civilisation.
The city is known locally as the Cidade Morena thanks its dark red (and fertile) soil. The climate is fairly hot (average temperature peaks at 28°C in July-August) but cooler and less humid than the Pantanal.
History
Settlement of the territory mirrors that of the American West. Although there had been settlements in the Mato Grosso territory since the early 1700s, most were located around rivers which provided the primary arteries for transport. This left the cerrado grassland relatively untouched until the late 19th century when soldiers returning from the Paraguayan War spread word about large unclaimed areas perfect for cattle grazing - and triggering a new influx of settlers. One of these would-be settlers was José Antônio Pereira.
In 1872, Pereira set out from Minas Gerais, travelling in a small wagon train towards the Mato Grosso territory. He reached a spot in the open cerrado grasslands, at the confluence of two streams where he stopped and chose to establish his farm. This location is now occupied by the city's Horto Florestal park. Pereira travelled back to Minas Gerais, gathering his wife, 18 children, slaves, a horse, a parrot and a house cow and brought them out to the settlement which he called Arraial de Santo Antônio de Campo Grande. Further settlers arrived, resulting in the growth of a small town which was raised to the status of a municipality in 1899.
The Carro de Boi monument located near the Horto Florestal commemorates the wagon train of Campo Grande's founder, José Antônio Pereira. Credit: Vinicius Bacarin / Shutterstock
The regional economy was centred around cattle ranching, with trails established for cattle runs into the neighbouring states of Paraná and São Paulo. The military also selected Campo Grande as the location to centralise its Military Command for protection of Brazil's western frontiers. However, the arrival of the railway in 1914 cemented the town's future by making Campo Grande the major railway junction for cattle and other products being shipped out of the southern Pantanal - and triggering the downfall of Corumbá (which had previously dominated because of its role in river transport). Campo Grande quadrupled in size between 1915 and 1922. Then, by 1932 it had quadrupled again.
Revolution and the Creation of Mato Grosso do Sul
In July 1932 Campo Grande briefly became the capital of the newly declared State of Maracajú. Local leaders declared independence for the southern part of Mato Grosso. Until that time, Mato Grosso was a single huge state, whose government sat in the remote city of Cuiabá, and who seemed disinterested in issues affecting the southern region. The breakaway territory then promptly sided with São Paulo in Brazil's Constitutionalist Revolution. This revolution pitted São Paulo and its allies against the dictatorship of Getúlo Vargas who had seized power in 1930. Despite promises from other states, southern Mato Grosso was the only region which provided combatants to fight alongside São Paulo. However, the conflict was short-lived since the revolutionaries were heavily outnumbered and outgunned when confronted with the full force of Brazilian military. Several battles were fought around Coxim, Porto Murtinho, and Porto Esperança over several months as nationalist forces entered southern Mato Grosso to reclaim the territory. Although this was a military loss for the region, memory of the conflict remained a rallying call for separatist movements. It's goal was realised in 1977 when the new state of Campo Grande (later renamed to Mato Grosso do Sul) was announced by President Ernesto Giesel, and which triggered a new period of growth as the city's population grew from 180 thousand to around 850 thousand today.
Campo Grande Today
Although still with the air of being an oversized cowboy town, Campo Grande has everything expected from a modern metropolis - a has a surprising amount of diversity for the Brazilian interior. It's seen large-scale immigration from Japan, Germany, the Middle East, Spain, Italy and Paraguay, and is the location of Brazil's only urbanised Indian reserve. The region's economy is still dominated by cattle ranching, but has also grown due to Soy which has become a major export crop following the conversion of much of the formerly vast cerrado grasslands. Visitors will encounter a new city with many parklands and recreational areas. Significantly, for culture lovers its also the regional capital for Música Sertanja with stars such as Michel Teló and Luan Santana having started out in the city. Visitors are strongly encouraged to attend a show while they're in town.
Música Sertaneja
Casa do Artesão has a good selection of arts, crafts, and souvenirs.
The Mercadão Municipal contains stalls selling regional foods and crafts - such as leather goods, cowboy boots, and tereré (traditional South American Yerba maté tea).
Things to See and Do
Casa do Artesão
Av. Calógeras, 2050
Weekdays: 8am - 6pm; Sat: 9am-5pm Sat; Sun: Closed.
Located in the old Banco do Brasil building, constructed in 1929, the Casa do Artesão contains arts and crafts from around the state. These include ceramic works illustrating the flora and fauna of the pantanal, religious works, and indigenous pieces.
Barroarte
Av. Afonso Pena , 4329 .
Open: 9am - 10pm. Closed Mondays.
This is another destination for regional arts and crafts. It includes a wide selection of Pantanal-themed ornaments, ceramic works, paintings, wall-hangings and some indigenous pieces.
Mercadão Municipal / Camelódromo
Rua 7 de Septembro, 65
Mon-Sat 6:30am - 6pm; Sun 6.30am-midday.
There are two closely linked markets: Camelódromo (Avenida Noroeste, 5089) sells cheap clothing and electronics, whereas the Mercadão Municipal (located on the street behind, Rua 7 de Septembro, 65) focuses on regional foods and cultural items. This makes the Mercadão the more interesting of the two - where you can experiment pasteis (savories), tereré (maté tea), fish or jacaré, plus buy leathergood, a hat, and a new pair of cowboy boots.
Feira Indígena
Praça Oshiro Takmori
Open 6:30am - 8pm.
This is installed in the same square housing the Mercadão Municipal, the indigenous fair is open on weekdays, selling crafts and produce cultivated in the villages of the Terena Indians.
Morada dos Baís
Av. Noroeste, 5140
Open 9am to 8pm.
This is located on the opposite side of the road from the Camelódromo. Morada dos Baís was originally built in 1918 as a residence for one of the city's first merchants. It was transformed into a pensão (bed & breakfast) when the owner died in 1938 - running until 1979. For last few decades the building has served as the city's tourist information centre with space for exhibitions and cultural performances.
Above: Morada dos Baís. Tourist information and cultural centre in the centre of Campo Grande.
Above: Parque dos Nações Indígenas contains this statue celebrating the Guaicurú indians who traditionally inhabited the region. These horse-riding indians were the South American equivalent of the Apache or Sioux. This reproduces a scene from a famous painting by Jean-Baptiste Debret. When riding into battle the Guaicurú would cling to the sides of their horses so they were hidden and harder to shoot.
Below: Parque dos Nações Indígenas also contains many animals endemic to the region - including capybara which can be found grazing and resting around the small lake.
Parque das Nações Indígenas
Altos da Av. Afonso Pena.
Open 6am - 9pm. Closed on Mondays.
According to the locals this is the world's biggest urban park. We're unsure if that claim is true - but at 119 ha it's certainly big. It includes several interesting monuments (including that of a horse mounted Guaicurú warrior), 4km of walking trails, a small lake, and exhibition areas (including the Dom Bosco museum, Art Gallery and Aquarium).
Don Bosco Museum (Museu do Indio)
Av. Afonso Pena, 7000
Parque das Nações Indígenas
Tue-Sat: 8am - 4.30pm; Closed Sun/Mon
This houses a diverse collection of indian artefacts and stuffed animals collected by Salesian priests during their time working in the Pantanal and surrounding areas. Their main collection consists of 1,000 specimens of stuffed animals - mostly birds and mammals. There's also a collection of around 5,000 indigenous artefacts from the Xavante, Bororó, Moros, Carajás and other others - providing insights into indigenous history and culture. Admission is R$ 5.
Museu de Arte Contemporânia (MARCO)
Rua Antônio Maria Coelho, 6000, Parque das Nações Indígenas
Weekdays: 8am - 6pm; Sat: 9am - midday; Sun: Closed
Contains exhibitions of regional artwork, as well as exhibitions from other national and international artists.
www.marcovirtual.com.brHorto Florestal
Rua do Parque
Open 5am - 9pm. Closed Mondays.
Also known by its newer name, Parque Florestal Antônio de Albuquerque. This is located on the the site of the José Antônio Pereira's farm where Campo Grande was founded.It occupies a 5 acre area with a jogging track, plant nursery, BMX track, fitness equipment and a performance area.
José Antônio Pereira Museum
Av. Guiacurus, Vila Monte Alegre.
Open 9am - 5pm. Closed Mondays.
This museum is a memorial to Campo Grande's founder, and is located about 5 km from the city centre on the site of the old Fazenda Bálsamo, where Pereira and his family resided. It includes a small wattle and daub house, water mill and an ox cart, and other things which provide a view of life as experienced by the early pioneers.
Church of Santo Antônio / Cathedral of Nossa Senhora da Abadia
Rua do Padre.
Open to visitors: 2- 5pm weekdays. Closed to tourists: Sat/Sun
Originally built in the 1880s, was Campo Grande's first church and was named in honour of the patron saint of the city's founder. The original structure was demolished in 1922, being replaced by a modern temple featuring several beautiful works in stained glass. The church received the new title Cathedral of Nossa Senhora da Abadia following a blessing by Pope John Paul II.
Church of São Francisco
Rua 14 de julho, 4213.
Weekdays: 7am - 5pm; Sat: 7 - 11am
One of the beautiful historic buildings in Campo Grande, the church was built in the 1950s by Franciscan Friars helped by German immigrants who were supported by local farmers during the construction period.
Memorial of Indigenous Culture
Aldeia Indígena Urbana Marçal de Souza (Tiradentes suburb).
Open: 8 - 11:30am, and 1 - 5:30pm
This is an exhibition and performance space located in the Marçal de Souza urban indigenous village. It's built in the style of a traditional indigenous communal hut, using treated bamboo and covered with bacuri palm straw.
Praça Ari Coelho, located in the centre of Campo Grande, is a pleasant spot to relax from souvenir shopping. It's located on the corner of Avenida Afonso Pena and Rua 14 de Julho.
Above: Pantanal themed sculpture in Praça das Araras (Plaza of the Macaws) in Campo Grande.
Below: Despite its bold architecture, the troubled Aquário do Pantanal remains unopened despite having been originally scheduled for completion in 2013. Credit: Rafapress / Shutterstock
Aquário do Pantanal
Parque das Nações Indígenas
Opening date
One of Campo Grande's longest-running sagas. Construction of the aquarium was initiated in 2011 and set to open in October 2013, aiming to attract visitors to the city ahead of the 2014 World Cup. The bold design boasted to be the world's biggest freshwater aquarium consisting of 32 giant walk-through tanks (totalling 6.2 million litres) with around 12,500 fish split across 263 different species. Tanks were to be split thematically representing the Pantanal, Paraguay river, the Amazon, coastal sea and mangrove environments. It would have been an excellent educational facility allowing locals and visitors to learn about the region's diverse aquatic eco-systems - and to view local species such as piranha, dorado, various species of giant catfish, freshwater stingrays, and electric eels to name a few.
Although mismanagement, cost blowouts, and illicit diversion of funds to politicians are commonplace for Brazilian projects (particularly in light of the Lava Jato scandal) this drama continues to play out. Besides monetary problems, over 10,000 fish were purchased for the aquarium's rescheduled December 2014 opening date - but then left in storage and died due to improper care. The opening date has been rescheduled multiple times - then dropped completely as an audit office investigation and legal proceedings continued where the contractors and State government blamed one another. Initially budgeted at R$80 million, the cost as at January 2019 had reached R$240 million - with a further R$40 million needed to get the aquarium to a point where it could open. The court case is ongoing. No work has occurred onsite since late 2015. The structure of this still incomplete building is clearly visible overlooking the Parque das Nações Indígenas. Sadly, some parts of the building are now overgrown with vegetation and/or deteriorating due to weather.
Local Events
The best resource to find details of shows and events in Campo Grande is:
www.campogrande.net/eventosTours
The list below shows some options available tours of Campo Grande as organising trips into the Pantanal.
City Tour
www.campograndecvb.com.br
City Tour buses operated by the city's convention and visitors bureau. This is a three-hour trip taking in local sights led by a professional guide. Tickets can be bought online or at Morada dos Baís (where the bus leaves from).
Trem do Pantanal
Estação de Indubrasil, Rua Cascatinha
www.pantanalexpress.com
Service suspended
This used to be is a great way to see the Pantanal (from air conditioned comfort). This was a specialty tourist train running from Campo Grande, stopping in Piraputanga, Aquidauana, and Miranda. The service was suspended in 2015.
Pantanal Discovery
Mojave Hotel - Av. Afonso Pena, 602
www.gilspantanaldiscovery.com.br
25 years experience running Pantanal tours. Not entirely without complaints - but generally a good budget option with tours aimed primarily at backpackers. As of 2016 they now run their own lodge, The Pantanal Jungle Lodge
Pantanal Viagens & Turismo
Rua Joaquim Nabuco, 200, Shop 9
www.pantanalviagens.com.br
Tour agency arranging tours and fazenda stays in the Pantanal and Bonito. Works primarily with the Fazenda Passo do Lontra.
Impacto Turismo
Rua 7 de Septembro, 1090
www.impactoturismo.com.br
Local company with over 20 years arranging tours in the Pantanal region, including hotels, fazendas, barco-hotels and private guides.
Places to Eat
Visitors to Campo Grande are spoilt for choice for places to eat. You'll find typical Brazilian restaurants (Churrascaria, fish, feijoada, mouqueca, comitivas etc), Italian, Japanese, Middle Eastern or pretty much whatever else suits your tastes. If all else fails (or you just don't want to experiment) then the city also has all the other usual fast-food chain stores.
Casa do Peixe
Rua Doutor João Rosa Pires, 1030
casadopeixe.com.br
Specialists in Pantaneiro cuisine. Mostly fish, but some chicken and beef dishes.
Mon-Fri: 10:30am-2pm / 6:30-11pm
Sat: 10:30am-3pm / 6:30-11pm
Sun: 10:30am-3pm
Pizzaria Giuseppe
Rua Doutor Antônio Arantes, 155
Popular and well-rated local pizzeria.
Vermelho Grill
Av. Afonso Pena, 6078
www.vermelhogrill.com.br
Vegetarians' worst nightmare - but the best barbecue in town. Open for lunch and dinner.
Mon-Fri: 11:30am-2:30pm / 7-11pm
Sat: 11:30am-3:30pm / 7-11:30pm
Sun: 11:30am-4pm
Cantina Romana
Rua da Paz, 237
www.cantinaromana.com.br
Italian food to die for. A highly rated local favourite. Open for lunch and dinner.
Mon-Fri: 11am-2pm / 6-11pm
Sat: 11am-2:30pm / 6-11:30pm
Sun: 11am-3pm / 6-11pm
Fogo Caipira
Rua José Antônio, 145
www.fogocaipira.com.br
Expensive by local standards, but it's probably the best place to learn and experience Pantaneiro Cuisine. One of the few places you can try (farmed) jacaré.
Tue-Thu: 11am-2pm / 7-11pm
Fri: 11am-3pm / 7pm-12am
Sat: 11am-midnight
Sun: 11am-4pm
Casa Colonial
Av. Afonso Pena, 3997
www.casacolonial.com.br
Chic, elegance and a wine cellar. Highly rated.
Lunch - Tue-Sun: 11am-2:30pm
Dinner - Mon-Sat: 6:30pm-12am
Galpão Gaucho
Rua Kardec, 187
Consistently rated by Lonely Planet as one of the great value places in Campo Grande. Typical Brazilian food and Churrascaria.
Feira Central
Rua 14 de Julho, 3351
feiracentralcg.com.br
Popular food hall not (too) far from the central city. There's a strong Japanese theme due to significant Japanese immigration into the region in the early 20th century. Good selection of cheap eats and variety.
Wed-Fri: 6pm - midnight
Sat/Sun: 11am - midnight
Mon/Tue: Closed
View of Campo Grande's Feira Central - which is a large food count open in evenings and weekend. It's a great place for cheap food - with a heavy Japanese influence celebrating the high-level of Japanese immigration into the region dating from early 20th century. Credit: Vinicius Bacarin / Shutterstock
Bars and Nightclubs
Campo Grande has an active nightlife with plenty of bars and clubs to choose from. A small selection is listed below:
Barbaquá
Rua Rio Grande do Sul, 375
www.barbaqua.com.br
Popular bar with live music on Fridays and Saturdays.
Cachaçaria
Av. Fernando Correa da Costa, 165
www.cachacariabrasilms.com.br
Snacks, light meals and 150 different varieties of cachaça (traditional Brazilian cane spirit). The ideal place to experiment caiparinha cocktails.
Cafe Mostarda
Av. Afonso Pena, 3952
www.cafemostarda.com.br
Overrated and overpriced - but still an okay bar with live music.
Valley Acoustic Bar
Rua José Antônio, 792
www.valley.com.br
Popular nightclub venue for with shows of the local favourite, Música Sertanja.
Valley Pub
Av. Afonso Pena, 4150
www.valley.com.br
Another Música Sertanja venue linked to the Valley Acoustic above - but more pub (with food) than nightclub.
Place to Stay
As a major city, there's also a large selection of hotels and inns. These include many international chains. Brazil used to offer cheap accommodation but prices are now far more expensive than they used to be. Sometimes its useful to check prices on Booking.com or Trivago.com (or any of the many other similar sites) to try getting a discount deal. TripAdvisor.com has the benefit of reviews.
Hotel Ipê
Rua Ceara, 1834
www.hotelipems.com.br
New hotel. Professional, clean and reasonably priced. Room are small to medium.
See TripAdvisor review.
Grand Park Hotel
Av. Afonso Pena, 5282
www.grandparkms.com
Modern business hotel, located close to the city's major shopping mall.
See TripAdvisor review.
Novotel Campo Grande
Av. Mato Grosso, 555
www.accorhotels.com
Fairly standard business hotel - but very positively reviewed and a good option for most travellers.
See TripAdvisor review.
Ibis Campo Grande
Av. Mato Grosso 5513
www.ibis.com
Standard business hotel. Carbon copy of other Ibis hotels elsewhere.
See TripAdvisor review.
Bahamas Apart Hotel
Av. José Antônio 1117
www.bahamasaparthotel.com.br
Spacious apartment style hotel rooms with cooking facilities. Useful for longer term business accommodation or if travelling with family.
See TripAdvisor review.
Indaía Park Hotel
Av. Afonso Pena, 354
www.indaiahotel.com.br
Well appointed business class hotel. Good service, but little English spoken and expensive for what it is.
See TripAdvisor review.
Jandaía Hotel
Rua Barão do Rio Branco, 1271
www.jandaia.com.br
Set up for business travellers. Reasonable but a little old and overpriced.
See TripAdvisor review.
Hotel Concord
Av. Calógeras, 1624
www.hotelconcord.com.br
Reasonable budget hotel. A little older than the higher priced alternatives but clean and with good service.
See TripAdvisor review.
Hotel Nacional
Rua Dom Aquino, 610
Budget hotel. Basic but popular with backpackers. Gil's Pantanal Discovery tours operate from here.
No reviews available.
Hostel Santa Clara
Rua Vitor Meirelles, 125
www.pantanalsantaclara.com.br
Campo Grande hostel associated with the Pousada Santa Clara.
No reviews available.
Turis Hotel
Rua Kardec, 200
www.turishotel.com.br
Budget but chic hotel which Lonely Planet claims offers the best value in town.
See TripAdvisor review.
Pousada Dom Aquino
Rua Dom Aquino, 1806
www.pousadadomaquino.com.br
Simple bed & breakfast. A little run down but compensated with helpful staff.
See TripAdvisor review.
Alkimia Hotel
Av. Afonso Pena, 1413
bookwhizz.com
Budget hotel close to city centre. Clean and well-serviced.
See TripAdvisor review.
Hotel Colonial
Rua Kardec, 211
Cheap cousin for Hotel Internacional (next door).
No reviews available.
Getting There
Air:
Campo Grande airport is 7km from the city centre. Campo Grande has flights to/from most other major Brazilian cities via LATAM, Gol and Azul, as well as international flights to/from Santa Cruz in Bolivia. Azul has flights from Campo Grande to Corumbá and Bonito - although these require a connection via Campinas (in São Paulo state).
LATAM Airlines
Azul Airlines
Gol AirlinesAir taxi services are also available from the providers below if needing to arrange flights directly to Pantanal lodges and fazendas.
Amapil Táxi Aéreo
Mato Grosso do Sul Táxi Aéreo
Pan Air Táxi
If travelling between the airport and the bus station, there's an InduBrasil bus every 30 mins. Alternatively, a taxi costs around R$60 (USD20).
Vanzella Transporte have a bus service departing Campo Grande airport to Bonito at 1pm and 3pm daily.
www.vanzellatransportes.com.brBus:
Campo Grande's new Rodoviária is located 6km outside the city centre at Avenida Gury Marques 1215. From here there are buses departing to/arriving from most other Brazilian cities. The website below can be used to check times and bookings:
www.buscaonibus.com.brApproximate travel times are as follow:
Bonito, MS
Brasília, DF
Corumbá, MS
Cuiabá, MT
Dourados, MS
Foz do Iguaçu, PR
Miranda, MS
Ponta Porã, MS
Porto Velho, RO
Rio de Janeiro, RJ
São Paulo, SP
257 km
1,055 km
431 km
712 km
221 km
555 km
210 km
333 km
2,187 km
1,479 km
1,023 km
5 hrs
16 hrs
6 hrs
12 hrs
3.5 hrs
14 hrs
3 hrs
6 hrs
35 hrs
23 hrs
15 hrs
Local buses 061, 085, 087, 162, 165, and 189 go between the Rodoviária and city centre, costing around R$ 3. Using the inner-city requires you to purchase an Assetur bus card. These are available from news agents, pharmacies and bus stop kiosks in single-use (unitário) and rechargeable (recarregável) versions. Alternatively, a taxi to the town centre costs about R$ 25.
Road:
Braziian Federal highway BR-262 heads east-west, passing through the outskirts of Campo Grande. On the eastern side, this connects Campo Grande to other major Brazilian cities such as São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. On the western side, this leads through to Miranda, Aquidauana, Bonito, Corumbá and the Bolivian frontier.
The north-south highway is BR-163. To the north, this leads up towards Cuiabá, and the northern Pantanal region. To the south, this leads through to towns such as Dourados, and Ponta Porã on the frontier with the Paraguayan city of Pedro Juan Caballero.
A third major highway, BR-060 heads south-west towards the town of Jardim, then joins with BR-267 going to Porto Murtinho.
Banner image: Sunset in the Parque das Nações Indígenas (Vinicius Bacarin / Shutterstock)
Other photos: Andrew Mercer unless credited otherwise.
Pantanal Escapes